Rome 2022

It has been much too long since we have been able to travel. The world has been forever changed and we are forced to tolerate and exist within that change. That being said, we are off to one of our most favorite cities in Europe: ROME. Our last time here was Valentines Day 2019. It was spring warm, the daffodils and tulips were in bloom and people were slowly walking arm in arm along the paths in the Villa Borghese Garden or lounging lazily on the soft warm grass under the bright spring sun. What a welcome difference to what we left behind in snowy cold Toronto. We joined the walkers, with coats tied around waists and faces turned to the sun sipping cappuccino in the outdoor bistro. On our way back down the steps to the Piazza del Popolo, we encountered the usual tourist actors in Roman garb doing their best to entice euros out of the pockets of the tourist with the usual photo show. We fell for it and claimed a few tacky photos for a few euros. Michael always says you get caught at least once every trip and that trip was no different. We have a laugh every time we look at the photos so I guess they did their job.

Michael actually planned a Europe trip to Paris for my Birthday dinner and we hoped to meet up with Tim and Jenny but, alas, they were skiing in Italy, so Michael said, lets go to Rome. He didn’t have to twist my arm. Paris is for another day. So, keep tuned as we share our week adventures, including airports, security and COVID requirements along the way.

Lizzie asked if I have enough space in my suitcase to bring her back a souvenir.  “Yes Lizzie, I always save space for you.” MacKenzie, not to be left out, interjects with a big “me too Oma, a need a “subineer” too!” We will try not to disappoint.

We only take carry-on to bypass the luggage claim areas. I don’t think we have checked in luggage since the boys were toddlers? If you need it, you can buy it wherever you are. Travel light is the name of the game.

March 17 London

We departed Toronto on British Airways to London with a connection to Rome. Showed passports and vaccination certificates at check in and we were off. Enjoyed champagne and a delicious dinner on board. Did the boys proud and had to “raid the larder” for old time sake.

In London we cleared security and had 2 hours till departure. Showed passports and again certificates and we were off to Rome.

March 18 Rome

Landed in Rome about 13:30 and headed for the train station in the terminal. We wanted to do some experimenting with the local transit so as not to be solely dependant on taxis and limos. It was great. We bought the tickets from a kiosk that had about 10 languages available. We even got seat selection.  Stepped on, took our seats and the electric train departed within the next 5 minutes. We were at the main terminal 30 minutes later. Got out at Piazza del Popolo and our bed and breakfast was across the square at the base of The Borghese Gardens. Easy peasy!

We checked in, had an hour nap (cause who really sleeps on a plane?),  changed and headed out in the direction of The Spanish Steps and Trevi Fountain. Not too many tourists even though it was a Friday night. The cafes,  bistros, geleterias were set along the little cobble stone lanes with romantic lights and heaters warming the air. How lovely to stroll arm in arm reacquainting ourselves with our old surroundings. The air is thick with roasted chestnuts and perfume. Picked up some fresh Moroccan clementines and local beer for the room. We stopped at a very old little church at Trevi Fountain to pay respects to a dear friend. Tomorrow we will have a fresh set of eyes and will strike out to some new locations.

March 19

Woke up to a warm overcast day and headed toward the Castel Sant’ Angelo. It was built in the 2nd century as a mausoleum for emperor Hadrian and his family. Later Pope Pius II built a chapel at the site where it was said the archangel Michael appeared with sword in hand. A bronze statue of archangel Michael was built in 1753 on top the castle.  Because the Vatican would later fall outside the city walls and turned out to be difficult to defend, Castel Sant Angelo was connected to the Vatican by a tunnel in 1722. This way, the castle served as a refuge for the Pope and treasure chamber to secure the valuable church possessions in case of an attack on the Vatican and the St. Peter’s Basilica. The Castle of the Holy Angel owes much of its modern fame to the film adaptation of Dan Brown’s Angels & Demons, where the castle served as a hideout for the Illuminati.

A trip to Rome is not complete without stopping to enjoy The Campo de’ Fiori (Field of flowers in English) which is one of the main squares of Rome. The Piazza Campo dei Fiori, which really was once a field of flowers, and thus the name, was paved in 1456 under Pope Callistus III. it has remained as such since then and even today, every morning from Monday to Saturday it houses a market well known for its flowers, fruit and vegetables.

Leaving the market, we followed the Tiber River around towards the Pantheon and then doubled back into the narrow side streets where, they set up little bistro tables on patches of ground the size of a deck of playing cards. All patrons are quite pleased with their little patch where they share good company, a glass of campari spritz and a sandwich or the like. Toronto needs some serious lessons on how to do outside bistro. There are no 4 lane busy streets nor are there big metal barricades surrounding the out door tables. Everything here seems to exist in acceptable companionship. But then again, the Europeans have been perfecting the art for thousands of years.

After a brief freshen up at the bed and breakfast we headed back out to retrace our steps to the Castel Sant Angelo and the Vatican to get some photos in evening light. They are magnificent buildings.

But, along the way could not turn down the tempting delights in the gelateria directly across from our front door. It made us think of taking Lizzie and Mack to the gelateria in Oakville last summer.

We headed back toward our stomping grounds and stopped for dinner at a little outdoor restaurant in a side alcove. I had the most delicious tagliatelle carbonara and Michael chose the tagliatelle bolognaise. The house red just happens to be a very fine chianti. I think we deserved pasta after doing 14 kilometers today! Our hips and feet sure feel it! Tomorrow, we try it again but head into the east side of Rome.

March 20

What a glorious day! The streets are quiet but won’t be that way for long. We readied ourselves and headed for the subway with the plan to spend the day in the country. Even the subway was empty. Yay! We traveled for 30 minutes on subway and walked for another 25 to get to the area of Romanina. There was a shop there that Michael wanted to check out? It wasn’t bad, but not worth the walk through the questionable parking lot, along the highway and over the hills. He’s not in charge of Google maps anymore! But, he’s really good at carrying, so there’s a trade off.

Aha, a McDonald’s across the road. A coffee outside sounds nice. They only have the kiosks, darn! I did this one time for Lizzie in Toronto and I swear she aged a year by the time I got her food to her. Now I have to do it again just for coffee? I step in and the lady at the door wants my vax certificate. I show it and it won’t scan. We got denied entry at MacDonalds! We couldn’t even get a coffee. To heck with them, we have wine and beer, let’s go!

Laden with bread, cheese, tomatoes, oranges and refreshments, we retrace our steps over the hills but on the other side of the road. We’re not silly. This is a short cut. Up over the bridge, we come to a dead end. Michael mutters, “pain on top of pain” as we double back down the not so short shortcut and we cross the road to the path along the highway and back through the questionable parking lot. Finding a bench in the sunshine we decided to have a picnic and a beer. Was delicious as we talked through and laughed at being denied at MacDonalds, of all places.

Beside us Michael noticed a rosemary bush about 6 feet tall and 4 feet wide in full bloom. (They grow like weeds here). He headed over to get a couple of propagating cuttings. I just about fell off the bench laughing when he came back and showed me what he got and asked which size I wanted? Heck, after that, they’re all coming home.

We got back to the room with no additional “situations” and decided to taste test the wine. It’s really delicious, but why wouldn’t it, it’s Italy.

Refreshed and heading back out, it was time to stroll Via del Corso with a little cup of Gelato. Yummy 😋! As it is Sunday, many restaurants and bistros are closed so we had an early dinner in a little diner along a cobblestone side lane at a table under a heater. It was cozy. Dinner was spaghetti carbonarba and fettuccine fungi.  Oh goodness, and washed down with a glass of red house wine. Did you know wine is cheaper than water here? We got reminiscing about the day and Michael was into some storytelling. What a great day!

March 21 – Happy 1st day of Spring!

Headed out early to get the full tourist immersion. The Colusseum, Roman Forum and The Pantheon, to name the majors. There is so much history, archeological activity and renovations, it’s mind blowing. The jewelry company Bulgari paid $2 million euros to clean and refresh the Spanish Steps. As you know, marble is porous and there was a lot of food, ice cream and bubble gum to be cleaned up. The Bulgari family is also paying for renovations on other major historical sites around Rome. And the locals who live within Rome seem imune to the significance of its existance, except for the opportunity to turn a tourist’s pockets inside out. The Colluseum tour was €35 per person (CDN$50.00) BUT the ticket kiosk was closed due to Covid restrictions (apparently) BUT you could buy a ticket from the street hawker. Thanks, but no thanks.

The Roman Forum covers a vast swath of land along both sides of the road Foro Romano, just down the street from the Colusseum. Part of the area is the Forum of Augustus which stretched for about 500 sq meters. The square was covered in Carrera marble from Tuscany. The marble has been long gone and there was much soil accumulation from the 9th and 10th centuries. In 1584 buildings were built over the grounds and it wasn’t until 1932 the area was excavated and the forum was discovered below the street. Even today, anytime there is new construction or underground work (water, telecommunication lines etc.) it’s a slow slog because they are constantly finding new historic sites. That’s a lot of info, but it is really impressive when you are standing in situ and touching history.

Moving onwards we revisited Campo di Fiori, Piazza Navona, Piazza Venezia and The Pantheon before sitting down to a lunch of pasta and beer. We snagged a table right by the pasta making lady. It wasn’t a tourist gimmick, she actually was at her station making pasta.

Had coffee in the Villa Borghese Gardens and a long stroll in the sunshine through the park before returning to our hotel and setting arrangements for dinner. After dinner while finishing an amazing glass of sangiovese wine we did a video chat with Tim and Jenny in Germany. An evening stroll past the Spanish Steps and down Via del Corso and it was time to turn in. We did 14km today. We’re trying to burn off the pasta calories each day.

March 22 – my Birthday celebration day

Another gorgeous day with bright sun and 17C. Today is the day I get to celebrate my birthday and the weather couldn’t be any more wonderful! Headed out for another stroll down Via del Corso, turn a left at Via Condotti and voila, the Spanish Steps. This area houses all the high fashion designers of clothes and accessories. Ya gotta be rich to shop these streets. Some of the fashion on display is pretty outrageous though. Turned another left and headed to Villa Borghese Garden where we planned to relax and have a picnic. Picked up a little pizza and sandwich, cold beer and water and headed across Piazza del Popolo and up the hill to Borghese. Guess what, the Roman photo actors are back.

Villa Borghese Garden is a 198 acres of landscaped garden in the heart of Rome. Construction began in 1606 on the will of Cardinal Scipione Borghese, nephew of Pope Paul V. He wanted to build a villa that reflected the immense prestige of the family as well as have a place to house his art collections. Within the park are secret gardens, lakes, ponds, statues and buildings and yet the most fascinating attraction of the villa gardens is the Water Clock, the Victorian “hydrochronometer”.

The hydrochronometer was built in 1867 by the inventor Giovan Battista Embriaco, who displayed the water clock at the Universal Exposition of 1867 in Paris. In 1873, the hydrochronometer was placed in the Villa Borghese gardens into a fountain designed by the architect Gioacchino Ersoch. The clock is set in a tower in the center of a small lake. It is completely run by water. Filling and emptying with water coordinates the timing of the mechanisms. The water clock works 24/7.

We could not think of a more fitting location to attach a “Love Lock” for Lizzie and Mack, than on the gate surrounding the clock, as a wish and hope for their well being and a prosperous future in whatever they chose in their lives. May their buckets always be full.

Tonight is dinner at Il Gabriello. We first came here for Valentines dinner 2019. So why not repeat for birthday.  It is a little grotto that seats max 35. It is family owed and operated and the food is incredible! I brought my birthday cards from Lizzie and Mack to set on the table. Thank you girls. They are beautiful.

March 23

Another gorgeous day! 21C and full on sunshine. Our accommodations are perfectly situation on Via del Corso at the entrance of Piazza del Popolo. Our B&B is Casa di Goethe. Wolfgang Goethe lived here from1749-1832 with his German artist friend Johann Tischbein during his famous Italian journey. He wrote and published many books and painted in the rooms directly below our room. There is a museum with the very interesting publications.

Piazza del Popolo, 100 meters to our right is a large “Peoples Square”. There is a “twin” facade happening. The church Santa Maria in Montesanto (on the left) and Santa Maria dei Miracoli (on the right) look the same but they are not. When being built in the17th century, the space on the left was smaller than the space on the right. So the size dimensions outside are slightly different and the inside floor plans are also. One is elliptical and the other is circular.

In the center of the square is the Flaminio Obelisk which is one of the most significant obelisks in the city and the first to be brought from Egypt to Rome. The operation was so grand that, for years, the public could admire the ship used to transport it. Built around 1300BC for the temple of Ra in Egypt, it has a height of 25.90 meters and at the base is 36.50 meters. It is a single block of red granite, and it’s sides are decorated with hieroglyphs by order of Seti I and his son Ramses II. Basically, the Roman’s were good at plundering other civilizations and claiming ownership of the treasures. They actually stole 13 such obelisks.

The Porta Flamenia or Porta del Popolo, is the entrance arch and was built by Pope Sixtus IV in 1475 on the site of the Roman gate which at the time was partially buried. To stand in the middle of the Piazza and absorb the history is overwhelming. If these artifacts could speak, what would they say?

Time to move on, through the square and up the steps into the north section of Villa Borghese with a breakfast picnic.  Cappuccino outside in the sun, people watching at Casino (boat house) del Lago. Sauntered down to the lake and enjoyed a young lady singing some beautiful French and Italian ballads while people paddled around the lake in rented boats. €4 for 20 minutes.

The lake is circled by a walking path but you can’t miss the  center piece – “Temple of Asclepius” who was the Greek God of medicine and healing. A welcome respite after all the walking. The geese, ducks and turtles were not bothered by us and life was peaceful. A walk past the Water Clock to check on Lizzie and Mack’s lock and we headed back to out B&B to do a self Antigen Test, just to check before we do the 24 hour departure test tomorrow at the pharmacy. Negative! Yay. Although Michael had a plan that if we were positive and had to stay, we would take a train to Naples and rent a car and hold up on the Amalfi Coast. I was kinda hoping positive but we promised to come home to wee girls this weekend. Priorities.

Celebrated with Gelato, and strolled down Via del Corso to the Spanish Steps and up the 138 steps, count em, 138, and my knees felt everyone. Dinner at Ristorante Edy in a side lane under a heater and then a slow stroll home. What a wonderful day!

March 24 Last full day of Rome

Headed out early to do a final circle of the city before we leave tomorrow.  Priority is rapid test at the pharmacy, across the way. 15 minutes later, result NEGETIVO so with print out in hand we celebrated with a cappuccino before setting out on our final day around the city. It was a wonderful time but I won’t go into details. Tomorrow morning we fly Rome to London and then onto to Toronto. We hope you enjoy the final pictures.